Baruntse Climb

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Baruntse is one of the most significant peak situated in Nepal between Everest and Makalu. It is bounded on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Mt. Cho Polu (6735m), to the north-west by the Imja glacier and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. We climb the mountain by the normal South -East Ridge which has more chances of success.

Mountain Climb
 
has been organizing expedition to Baruntse
(7,129m / 23,389ft) almost every year with good success rate. We take an alternative expedition route for Baruntse Climb than generally other expedition organizers use for proper acclimatization before reaching to Baruntse Base camp. Baruntse expedition starts from Lukla and then towards the Hillary’s classic Everest route to Panggom and then to over the Mera-La to the upper Hinku basin in complete wilderness amidst the great snow peaks that surround the high camp near Panch Pokhari then further to Baruntse Base Camp (5400 m). We set up three camps above the Base camp and after the mountain has been climbed we return via Mera la to Zetra Kharka then to Lukla making the expedition a great memorable.

For Baruntse Climb our effort will be always to put maximum number of climbers to the summit with good logistics and strategy.

Why should you choose Mountain Climb for your Baruntse Expedition
www.mountain-climbs.com/why-choose-mountain-climb.html


Baruntse Climb expedition fixed departure 2018/2019

Days Spring Autumn Outlined Itinerary Overnight
1 14-Apr 1-Oct Arrive Kathmandu, meet our representative and transfer to Hotel.  Hotel
2 15-Apr 2-Oct At leisure in Kathmandu / administrative formalities.                        Hotel
3 16-Apr 3-Oct Fly to Lukla and trek to Payun (2,290m / 7513ft.).  Camp
4 17-Apr 4-Oct Trek to Pangkongma (3,010m / 9875ft.).  Camp
5 18-Apr 5-Oct Trek to Nyungsowa (2,300 / 7545ft.). Camp
6 19-Apr 6-Oct Trek to Zetra khola (3,790m / 12434ft.).  Camp
7 20-Apr 7-Oct Trek to Kote (4,120m / 13517ft.).  Camp
8 21-Apr 8-Oct Trek to Thangnak (4,350m / 14271ft.). Camp
9 22-Apr 9-Oct Acclimatization day.  Camp
10 23-Apr 10-Oct Trek to Khare (5,100m / 16732ft.).  Camp
11 24-Apr 11-Oct Mera La (5,415m / 17765ft.) cross then trek to Rato Odar. Camp
12 25-Apr 12-Oct Trek to Seto Pokhari.  Camp
13 26-Apr 13-Oct Trek to Baruntse Base Camp (5550m / 18208ft.).  Camp                                                                  
14-26 27-Apr-9May
14-26-Oct Climbing period of Baruntse using 3 camps above Base Camp                                                                 
Camp
27 10-May 27-Oct Cleaning up Base Camp.  Camp
28 11-May 28-Oct Trek down to Rato Odar.  Camp
29 12-May 29-Oct Trek to Khare.  Lodge
30 13-May 30-Oct Trek to Kothe.  Lodge
31 14-May 31-Oct Trek to Zetra Kharka.  Lodge
32 15-May 1-Nov Trek to Lukla (2880m).  Lodge
33 16-May 2-Nov Fly Lukla / Kathmandu & transfer to hotel. Hotel
34 17-May 3-Nov At leisure in Kathmandu. 
Hotel
35 18-May 4-Nov Depart Kathmandu. // //  //

We have noted few points related to Baruntse Climb expedition whether they might be helpful to better prepare the expedition:

Length of Baruntse Climbing Expedition
Our Baruntse Climb Expedition total duration is 33 days (Kathmandu to Kathmandu), this duration is planned for the overall expedition including for administrative formalities, approach to Baruntse Base Camp / fro Base Camp, acclimatization at Base camp, and above Base camp for the summit attempt etc….The daily waling /climbing / ascent duration depends on each camp basis, such as during duration for approach to Baruntse Base camp in average is 5-6 hours, whereas from Base camp to Camp different camps is 4-5 hours in average. We set up 3 Camps above Base Camp and from Camp 3 we ascend to the Baruntse Summit and return back to Base Camp or Camp one and the duration is 9+ hours depending on each climber. The above average duration is just generalized, but the actual climbing duration depends on each climber.

Administrative Formality / climbing permit
There are some government formalities for obtaining the Baruntse Climbing permit, and as a professional Mountaineering expedition organizer company we take every administrative formalities for Climbing Baruntse seriously so that the member/client could enjoy a hassle free Baruntse Climbing. We process the permits 3 months in advance, therefore you are requested to send the relevant documents (please print them, fill up, scan them & send us by e-mail along with a scan passport photograph):
If you are a member of the Baruntse Expedition  
userfiles/Member Bio-data.doc
For Leader of the Baruntse Expedition need extra doc userfiles/Leader doc-Mountain Climb(1).doc
Risk & Release for each Baruntse Expedition member userfiles/Assumption of Risk & Release.doc

Difficulty of Baruntse Climb
This is another major question frequently asked. And the answer to this is rather simple; the difficulty of any mountaineering depends on your previous climbing experience, physical fitness, mental preparedness etc… Baruntse climbing involves some technically difficulties and also due to its harsh weather conditions, altitudes etc, can affect the climbers. Our team of climbing sherpas fix ropes at difficult sections of the climb and if you be bit careful about using the technical equipments, good acclimatization, though the expedition is well planned in terms of proper acclimatization process, at the same time we advise you have some previous climbing experience or use of technical climbing equipments and do some training before you come on the expedition such as jogging, running, long walking, cardio vascular exercises etc. It is also important that you have general check up with your doctor before coming on the expedition.

At an Emergency
MOUNTAIN CLIMB prides itself on being prepared for any emergency situation during Baruntse expedition. Our guides / Sirdars are trained in first aid and can deal with most of the basic ailments that are associated with the Baruntse Climbing / mountaineering. When a serious emergency does occur, then outside help is needed and such rescues are expensive therefore every climber should have his or her own insurance arranged before coming to Nepal. It is advised that you buy the Insurance Policy right from the home Country through a reliable Insurance company covering medical, accidental and rescue evacuation. Please ensure with your insurance company whether they really cover the risk for such high altitude mountaineering expeditions.

Food safety & the types of food
Food safety to keep our expedition members is always a priority for us. All the food we take for Base camp use are freshly bought from the market, properly checked the date validity or freshness before we dispatch for the expedition and all our cooks and kitchen staffs are trained in cooking varieties of hygienically prepared foods and good taste.

During approach to / fro Base camp you will have your breakfast and dinner at teahouses some days. We stop for lunch at one of the various trailside restaurants, but at places where there are no lodges or at Base Camp we  do complete set of camping using our kitchen tents, dining tents, chair and tables, member tent, staff tents and our cooks the prepare meals and our well trained and experienced cook will prepare fresh and tasty meals and snacks. We will have plenty of food including the traditional Nepali meal Dal Bhat (rice, curry, and lentils), noodles, rice, potatoes, vegetables and soup and Nepalese versions of western food such as pizza and French fries too. There will be also various types of snacks such as biscuits, chocolates, nuts etc also special cakes prepared by our cook with plenty of drinks such as tea, hot chocolates, coffee, juice etc… And for the Full board expedition service food for higher camps above base camp will be various types of light / energy foods such as chocolate bars, dry fruits, biscuits, tea, coffee, sugar, whole meal packed food etc….

Drinking water during Baruntse expedition
During approach from the expedition starting point to Base camp and Back to the finishing point your guide will provide you with all the water you need during your trek to Base Camp, though you may also buy bottled water on the trail, but we do not encourage much on this as the plastic bottles are difficult to dispose off and have become an environmental problem. During your stay at Base camp the water source is either from a small stream or snow melting that our cooks boil and 100% safe to drink or cooking. Above Base camp in the mountains the water source is from snow melting which is safe for drinking as well.

Equipment you should bring
Choosing the right equipment is very important especially for climbing. All group climbing equipments such as ropes, tents, snow bars, ice-screws, shovel, cooking pots are provided from Mountain Climb for full board expedition service, whereas you need to have enough personal clothes to stay warm and good gears for climbing or cool yet not over packed. Usually you will have warm days and very cold nights. Detailed information about the personal gear are available on request or briefly explained about the gear list section of the page.

Extra money to bring
Without knowing your proper service selection of the expedition service either Full Board expedition service, Base camp service or any other services, it is next to impossible to justify the correct amount you would need to bring, but there will be always only little money that you can bring for personal expenses such as souvenirs, drinks, personal equipment etc... Therefore, we advise you on this after your chosen expedition service.

Experience of our guides / staffs
MOUNTAIN CLIMB has some of the most dependable and experienced guides / Climbing Sherpas. All of our guides / Climbing Sherpas have spent years climbing mountains and Baruntse Climbing experience with several times to the Summit, so you can be confident in our staffs.

Accommodations & toilet facility
We provide a single room for Baruntse Climb expedition members in Kathmandu. During your approach to Baruntse Base Camp one tent for 2 members will be provided whereas at  Base camp you will be provided a single tent with thick mattress and pillow to make your sleep comfortable and at Camp I and above you need to share tent with another member which will be also warmer. There will be also a separate toilet and shower tent facility at Base Camp.

Environmental Responsibility
Our approach is to raise environmental awareness among Climbers making the Baruntse Climb expedition an Eco-Baruntse Expedition. We also give information to our valued clients on how to minimize maximum damage on the environment. We clean up and bring all our garbage back from Baruntse Base Camp and from the mountain as far as possible produced during the expedition. Yearly we invest 3% of our net profit for the above purpose and furthermore, in participating in various social works in Nepal. We always heartily welcome and enchant your comments and suggestions for a better way to serve our customers, environment and nature.

Apart from above if you have any further comments or suggestion, please write us: info@mountain-climbs.com


All Baruntse Expedition material ©Mountain-Climbs.com

Trip Facts

Baruntse Climb

Elevation: 7,129m / 23,389ft.     
Coordinates: 86° 58' 45'' E- 27° 51' 39''N,     located in Himalaya, Khumbu Himal between Everst & Makalu                       
Activity: Mountaineering expedition
Duration: 35 days
Grade: 3 (needs good physical fitness & some climbing experience)
First Ascent: Geoff Harrow and Colin Todd first climbed Baruntse on 30th May 1954 by the South East ridge
Starting from: Lukla                    Ending at: Lukla

Baruntse Climb fixed departure expedition 2018/2019

Days Spring Autumn Outlined Itinerary Overnight
1 14-Apr 1-Oct Arrive Kathmandu, meet our representative and transfer to Hotel.  Hotel
2 15-Apr 2-Oct At leisure in Kathmandu / administrative formalities.   Hotel
3 16-Apr 3-Oct Fly to Lukla and trek to Payun (2,290m).  Camp
4 17-Apr 4-Oct Trek to Pangkongma (3,010m).  Camp
5 18-Apr 5-Oct Trek to Nyungsowa (2,300). Camp
6 19-Apr 6-Oct Trek to Zetra khola (3,790m).  Camp
7 20-Apr 7-Oct Trek to Kote(4,120m).  Camp
8 21-Apr 8-Oct Trek to Thangnak(4,350m). Camp
9 22-Apr 9-Oct Acclimatization day.  Camp
10 23-Apr 10-Oct Trek to Khare(5,100m).  Camp
11 24-Apr 11-Oct Mera La (5,415m) cross then trek to Rato Odar. Camp
12 25-Apr 12-Oct Trek to Seto Pokhari.  Camp
13 26-Apr 13-Oct Trek to Baruntse Base Camp (5550m).  Camp
14 27-Apr 14-Oct Ascent of Baruntse using 3 camps above Base Camp Camp
15 28-Apr 15-Oct Baruntse Climbing Camp
16 29-Apr 16-Oct Baruntse Climbing Camp
17 30-Apr 17-Oct Baruntse Climbing Camp
18 1-May 18-Oct Baruntse Climbing Camp
19 2-May 19-Oct Baruntse Climbing Camp
20 3-May 20-Oct Baruntse Climbing Camp
21 4-May 21-Oct Baruntse Climbing Camp
22 5-May 22-Oct Baruntse Climbing Camp
23 6-May 23-Oct Baruntse Climbing Camp
24 7-May 24-Oct Baruntse Climbing Camp
25 8-May 25-Oct Baruntse Climbing Camp
26 9-May 26-Oct Baruntse Climbing Camp
27 10-May 27-Oct Cleaning up Base Camp.  Camp
28 11-May 28-Oct Trek down to Rato Odar.  Camp
29 12-May 29-Oct Trek to Khare.  Lodge
30 13-May 30-Oct Trek to Kothe.  Lodge
31 14-May 31-Oct Trek to Zetra Kharka.  Lodge
32 15-May 1-Nov Trek to Lukla (2880m).  Lodge
33 16-May 2-Nov Fly Lukla / Kathmandu & transfer to hotel. Hotel
34 17-May 3-Nov At leisure in Kathmandu.  Hotel
35 18-May 4-Nov Transfer to airport for international departure. // //  //

 Baruntse Climb Full board expedition service includes:
•    4 nights standard hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast basis,
•    Airport-hotel-airport transfers,
•    Internal flight tickets with airport tax,
•    Baruntse Climbing and all other applicable permits,
•    Cargo clearance & duties fees,
•    3 member : 1 Professional High altitude climbing Sherpa backed Base Camp cook & kitchen helpers,
•    1 Government liaison officer,
•    Daily wages, equipment allowance, insurance, food for above mentioned staff, porters and Liaison officer,
•    3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch & dinner) throughout the expedition period at Base camp & while approach to/from Baruntse Base camp,
•    Base camp tent with thick mattress, chair, table, dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, shower tent,
•    31 kg weight allowed per member for personal equipment,
•    Transportation of all food supply & expedition equipments to / from Base camp,
•    Garbage shipped off charges from Base Camp,
•    High altitude (above Base camp) food,  fuel for member & climbing Sherpas,
•    High altitude tent, ropes, snow bar, rock piton, fixings, shovel, ice-screws etc…
•    1 Gamow bag / O2 for emergency use  only,
•    Satellite phone, Walkie-Talkies,
•    Solar panel for power supply,
•    Emergency Helicopter rescue arrangements,

Cost excludes

•    Travel to /from Nepal,
•    Lunch and Dinner in Kathmandu, drinks, postage, telephone bills & all items of personal nature,
•    Personal travel, high risk, accidental and medical insurance of member,
•    Climbing Sherpa summit bonus US$ 490 per Sherpa, US$ 280 per person (those who do not go to summit due to client reason),
•    Respective expenses if one returns earlier from the expedition due to sickness or emergency purpose.
•    Any extra services not mentioned herein cost inclusion.

Baruntse Climb Base camp expedition service includes:
•    4 nights standard hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast basis,
•    Airport-hotel-airport transfers,
•    Internal flight tickets with airport tax,
•    Baruntse Climbing and all other applicable permits,
•    Cargo clearance & duties fees,
•    Base Camp cook & kitchen helpers,
•    1 Government liaison officer,
•    Daily wages, equipment allowance, insurance, food for above mentioned staff, porters and Liaison officer,
•    3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch and dinner) throughout the expedition period at Base camp and while approach to/from Base camp,
•    Base camp tent with thick mattress, chair, table, dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, shower tent,
•    31 kg weight allowed per member for personal equipment,
•    Transportation of all food supply & expedition equipments to / from Base camp,
•    Garbage shipped off charges from Base Camp,
•    1 Gamow bag / O2 for emergency use  only,
•    Solar panel for power supply,
•    Emergency Helicopter rescue arrangements,

Cost excludes

•    Travel to /from Nepal,
•    Lunch and Dinner in Kathmandu, drinks, postage, telephone bills & all items of personal nature,
•    Personal travel, high risk, accidental and medical insurance of member,
•    Any services above Base camp,
•    Respective expenses if one returns earlier from the expedition due to sickness or emergency purpose.
•    Any extra services not mentioned herein cost inclusion
Baruntse Climb Gear List
Group climbing equipment, including fuel, stoves, ropes, fixings, tents, snow bars is supplied from Mountain Climb. For Full Board expedition service whereas Climbers will need to provide their own personal equipment.

Baruntse Climb Suggested Personal Gear
 TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
•    1 Climbing Harness
•    1 pair of climbing boot.
•    1 pair of Gaiter
•    1 pair of Strong Crampon
•    Perlon. 6 mm, 40ft long.
•    1 Daypack (approx 45 lit)
•    1 Ice-Axe with leash (60 cm)
•    1 Jumar (Ascender)
•    1 Belay device: ATC or figure 8.
•    Carabiners: 4 Screw-gate (locking) and 6 regular twist-lock.

FOR SLEEPING
•    1 High Altitude Sleeping Bag (Expedition quality minus 20° C)
•    1 B.C. Sleeping Bag (minus 20° C)
•    1 Therma-Rest foam pad.

FOR HEAD
•    1 Woolen warm hat that fully covers your ears
•    1 Good sun hat or baseball cap
•    1 Bandanas or Neck gaiter
•    Thick balaclava, very thin balaclava or face mask
•    Sun cream (2 small tubes).
•    Balaclava: 1 heavyweight & 1 lightweight
•    Lips cream (2 sticks).

FOR HAND
•    1 pr polypro gloves.
•    1 pr over mitts (Gore-tex) double liners
•    1 pair of fleece/ wind stopper glove

CLOTHES
•    1 Thick fleece pant
•    1 Fleece jacket
•    4 T-shirts
•    2 Cotton pants or trekking pants
•    2 expedition T-shirts
•    1 wind proof jacket (Gore-tex)
•    1 Pile jacket: 1 Heavyweight pile
•    1 Pile pant
•    2-3 pieces of regular lightweight underwear. Synthetic or wool, but no cotton!
•    1 Long underwear
•    1 Long-sleeved shirts
•    1 Down Jacket
•    1 Down Pant.
•    1 Down parka
•    Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with hood.

FOR LEGS
•    1 Light hiking boots or trekking shoes
•    1 pair of sandle or Sport shoes or low top shoes
•    2 pair brand new wool or Pile Climbing socks
•    2 pair brand new liner socks. Thin wool, nylon
•    Vapor barrier socks(Optional)
•    Some lightweight socks

BITS AND PIECES:
•    Plastic bags
•    2 lighters
•    Notebook/pens/pencil
•    Reading material
•    Music player and tapes (if prefer music)
•    2 Locks
•    Games- if you prefer(cards, dice, mastermind, rumicub, uno, frisbee, small ball etc.
•    Money pouch/belt/inside pocket
•    Clothes peg
•    Ear plugs     PRIMARY ESSENTIALS
•    Passport and some copies
•    2x Passport photos
•    Credit card
•    Traveller's cheques
•    $ cash, some in small bills
•    Important addresses and phone numbers
•    Airline Tickets

MISCELLANEUS
•    A good quality small Camera (Optional)
•    1 Water bottle.
•    1 Liter Thermos Flask
•    1 Pee bottle
•    Two sets of high quality Sunglasses (100% UV, IR)
•    1 Swiss Army knife
•    Compressions stuff sacks
•    1 Headlamp with spare batteries and bulbs
•    1 Large good quality duffle bags with lock.
•    Cup:
•    Bowl
•    Spoon

TOILETRIES
•    Lip salve, Razor, Toothpaste, Toothbrush, Moisturizer, Shaving cream, Liquid soap (biodegradable). There should be sufficient throughout the duration of your expedition.
•    Small towels (2) Nail clipper, Mirror, Scissors

HEALTH CONSIDERATIONS/MEDICINE
Acute Mountain Sickness (if going above 2500m)
Diamox (Acetazolamite) 250mg

Antibiotics
Ciproloxacin 500mg or norfloxacin 400mg

Antibiotic/anti-fungal skin application
Antibiotic (mupirocin 2%) ointment (15gm tube), Antifungal (clotrimazole or miconazole) cream
Allergy Inflammation & Itch
Anti-inflammatory cream/ointment/gel, hydrocortisone cream 1%

Antiseptic
Povi-Iodine (Betadine), Savlon or Dettol soap, burn cream silver sulphadiazine (20 gm tube)

Disinfectant for water
Iodine tabs or iodine solution eg. Lugol's or iodine crystals (25ml with dropper)

Diarrhea
Imodium or Lomotil caps

Eye and Ear infection
Antibiotic drops or ointment for eye and ear

Indigestion
Antacid tabs

Nausea and Vomitting
Maxolon or Stemetil

Painkillers (Analgesics)
Paracetamol, ibuprofen 400mg

Oral Rehydration Solution
Oralyte, Gastrolyte, or Electrobion (2 pacs)

DRESSING AND WOUND CARE
Bandaids, Cotton buds, gauze squares, Sterile non stick dressing 10 cm, small roll of 10 cm adhesive tape bandage, elastic bandage 10 cm, closures eg. Steristrips 6 mm wide

INSTRUMENTS
Tweezers, scissors, sewing needle, safety pins, latex gloves

IMMUNISATION
At least six weeks before the departure you will need to consult your doctor to work out an immunization schedules relevant to the Himalayas. You should normally be immunized against Tetanus, Polio, Hepatitis A, Cholera, though you must also contact your doctor for necessary immunization details.

Vaccinations against the following diseases may be useful, although they might be difficult or expensive to obtain. Your doctor will let you know if they are appropriate:
-Rabies.
-Meningitis.
-Japanese Encephalitis.

DENTAL CHECKS
It is most important that you have a through dental examination before the expedition and have any necessary treatment carried out. Dental treatment on the mountain is likely to be drastic and traumatic!

INSURANCE
All our Climbing Sherpas, kitchen staffs and porters are insured through a reputed Insurance company covering accidental, rescue as well as medical whereas All climbing members must be insured before commencing on an Expedition. It is advised that you buy the Insurance Policy right from the home Country through a reliable Insurance company covering medical, accidental and rescue evacuation. Please ensure with your insurance company whether they really cover the risk for such high altitude mountaineering expedition.

©Mountain Climb P. Ltd.                                                                                  
www.mountain-climbs.com
Payment to Mountain Climb

An advance of 25% of the total cost is required when booking expedition, to be paid at least three month before departure to Mountain Climb.

The balance must reach us at least two months prior to expedition date to confirm a place/s. It can also be paid in Kathmandu before expedition departure on mutual agreement but on certain special condition only.

Mountain Climb reserve the right not to operate expedition without FULL payment receipt before departure for an expedition.

 We do accept last minute bookings if places are open for any departure (up to three weeks before trip date) in a first come, first served basis.

A group / individual participant must arrive Kathmandu at least two days in advance (4 days for Tibet expedition) in order to process your expedition or Tibet permits.

Mountain Climb Cancellation policy

In event of cancellation of your expedition the following charges will be made:
-More than 7 weeks before departure - Deposit amount
-6 weeks before departure date - 25% of total cost
-4 weeks before departure date - 50% of total cost
-Less than 3 weeks before departure date - No Refund.

Please provide us your bank transferred receipt, after the transfer of payment to our account.

Note!
We regret to inform you that we do not accept personal cheques or credit cards due to complicated bank procedures and delays.

Your Complete Financial Protection
Being a reputed and responsible Climbing Expedition organizer company, you can book your trip with Mountain Climb in complete confidence that all monies you deposit / pay for a trip are fully protected.

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