Lhotse Climb

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Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world is located in the South of Everest massif, separated by the Everest South col. Generally we operate Lhotse expedition in post monsoon season (Spring) though it can also be organized in Autumn season on request. Lhotse is a massif of different in the Lhotse range such as Lhotse shar, Lhotse middle, Lhotse East and we climb the highest peak of the massif.

Lhotse Climbing route follows the Everest route untill Camp III, then splits off to “Lhotse Camp 4” steep up the Camp III. Our Sherpa team will fix the route all the way to the summit, but there is steep ice and rock in the Lhotse Couloir so you need to be very fit and capable.

Our Lhotse expedition begins after a panoramic flight to Lukla, following the classis Everest route, we set up base camp on same as Everest Base camp, after our strong team of Sherpas set up various camps, whereas members have the chance to up and down acclimatizing and on a favourable day we attempt to climb this impressive mountain.

Why should you choose Mountain Climb for your Lhotse Expedition
www.mountain-climbs.com/why-choose-mountain-climb.html

Lhotse Climb Expedition Fixed departure 2019
Days Spring Outlined itinerary Overnight
1 3-Apr Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel. Hotel
2 4-Apr At leisure in Kathmandu/official formalities.  Hotel
3 5-Apr Kathmandu at leisure/ Lhotse expedition administrative formalities. Hotel
4 6-Apr Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2840m) and trek to Phakding (2652m). Lodge
5 7-Apr Trek to Namche Bazaar (3445m). Lodge
6 8-Apr At leisure in Namche Bazaar (3445m). Lodge
7 9-Apr Trek to Tyangboche (3,867m).  Lodge
8 10-Apr Trek via Pangboche to Dingboche (4400m).  Lodge
9 11-Apr Rest day at Dingboche.        Lodge
10 12-Apr Trek to Lobuche (4,912m).  Lodge
11 13-Apr Trek to Base Camp (5300m).  Camp
12-38  14-Apr-10-  May Lhotse Climbing period using 4 camps above base camp. Camp
39 11-May Lhotse Climbing extra day Camp
40 12-May Lhotse Climbing extra day Camp
41 13-May Lhotse Climbing extra day Camp
42 14-May Lhotse Climbing extra day Camp
43 15-May Cleaning up Base Camp / Withdraw Base Camp. Camp
44 16-May Return trek to Pangboche (4000m).  Lodge
45 17-May Namche Bazaar (3445m). Lodge
46 18-May Trek to Lukla (2840m).  Lodge
47 19-May Fly back to Katmandu & transfer to Hotel.  Hotel
48 20-May Katmandu at leisure. Hotel
49 21-May Depart Kathmandu. /////

To help you prepare your Lhotse Climb expedition and clarify your probable doubts we have noted few points as under whether they might be useful:

Length of Lhotse Climbing expedition
Lhotse Expedition total duration is 49 days (Kathmandu to Kathmandu), this duration is planned for the overall expedition such including administrative formalities, approach to/fro Base Camp, acclimatization at Base camp, and above Base camp for the summit attempt etc….The daily waling /climbing / ascent duration depends on each camp basis, such as during approach to Base camp an average walking duration is 5-6, whereas from Base camp to Camp III is about the same duration and from Camp III to Lhotse summit is 9+ hours depending on each climber. The above average duration is just generalized, but the actual climbing duration depends on each climber.

Administrative Formality for Lhotse expedition
There are quite lot of government formalities for obtaining the Lhotse Climbing permit, and as a professional Lhotse Expedition organizer company we take every administrative formalities for climbing Lhotse seriously so that the member/client could enjoy a hassle free Lhotse Climbing. We process the permits 3 months in advance, therefore you are requested to send the relevant documents (please print them, fill up, scan them & send us by e-mail along with a scan passport photograph):
If you are a member of the Lhotse Expedition userfiles/Member Bio-data.doc
For Leader of the Lhotse Expedition need extra doc
userfiles/Leader doc-Mountain Climb(1).doc
Risk & Release for for each Lhotse Climb Expedition member userfiles/Assumption of Risk & Release.doc

Difficulty of Lhotse Climb
This is another major question frequently asked. And the answer to this is rather simple; the difficulty of any mountaineering depends on your previous climbing experience, physical fitness, mental preparedness etc… Lhotse Climbing is of course difficult for those who are not not completely prepared for climbing. Lhotse expedition route is same as for Everest climb upto to Camp III i.e. first through the Khumbu ice-fall then to Camp I and Camp II to Camp III on the yellow band, from where the route for Lhotse Climbing separes stiff climbing, so you should have tecnhical climbing as well and at the same time due to its harsh weather conditions, high altitudes can make the climb difficult, but our climbing sherpas will fix ropes at some technical sections such as between camp III to the Summit. There will be fixed ropes from the Khumbu Icefall to Camp III, so if you are bit careful about using your personal equipments, good preparation before coming on the Lhotse expedition will surely lead us to the summit. Beyond your personal efforts, of course we do our best as well, proving good logistical support, itinerary modification etc....Before coming on Lhotse expedition we suggest you have at least 7000m climbing experience,  do physical exercises by running, long walking, cardio vascular exercises etc. It is also important that you have general check up with your doctor before coming on the expedition.

At an Emergency 
MOUNTAIN CLIMB prides itself on being prepared for any emergency during Lhotse expedition. Our guides / Sirdars are trained in first aid and can deal with most of the basic ailments that are associated with the Lhotse Climbing / mountaineering. When a serious emergency does occur, then outside help is needed and such rescues are expensive therefore every climber should have his or her own insurance arranged before coming to Nepal. It is advised that you buy the Insurance Policy right from the home Country through a reliable Insurance company covering medical, accidental and rescue evacuation. Please ensure with your insurance company whether they really cover the risk for such high altitude mountaineering expeditions such as for Lhotse (
8,516 m / 27,940ft).

Food safety & the types of food
Food safety to keep our Lhotse expedition members is always a priority for us, therefore we brief you about the food safety before departure on an expedition. All food we take for Base camp use are freshly bought from the market, properly checked the date validity or their freshness before dispatch to Lukla and all our cooks and kitchen staffs are trained in cooking varieties of hygienically prepared foods and good taste.

During approach to/fro Base camp you will have your breakfast and dinner at tea houses. We stop for lunch at one of the various trailside restaurants. And snacks are always easy to find. During your stay at Base Camp our well trained and experienced cook will prepare fresh and tasty meals and snacks. We will have plenty of food including the traditional Nepali meal Dal Bhat (rice, curry, and lentils), noodles, rice, potatoes, vegetables and soup and Nepalese versions of western food such as pizza and French fries etc... There will be also various types of snacks such as biscuits, chocolates, nuts etc also special cakes prepared by our cook with plenty of drinks such as tea, hot chocolates, coffee, juice etc… And for the Full board expedition service food for higher camps above base camp will be various types of light / energy foods such as chocolate bars, dry fruits, biscuits, tea, coffee, sugar, whole meal packed food etc….

Drinking water during Lhotse expedition 
During approach from Lukla to Base camp and Back to Lukla all teahouses have boiled water that is quite safe to drink. Your guide will provide you with all the water you need during your trek to Base Camp, though you may also buy bottled water on the trail, but we do not encourage much on this as the plastic bottles are difficult to dispose off and have become an environmental problem. During your stay at Base camp the water source is either from a small stream, ice or snow melting that our cooks boil and 100% safe to drink or cooking. Above Base camp in the mountains the water source is from snow melting which is safe for drinking as well. 

Equipment you should bring for Lhotse expedition
Choosing the right equipment is very important especially for climbing. All group climbing equipments for Lhotse expedition such as ropes, tents, snow bars, ice-screws, shovel, cooking pots are provided from Mountain Climb for full board Lhotse expedition service, whereas you need to have enough personal clothes to stay warm and good gears for climbing or cool yet not over packed. Usually you will have warm days and very cold nights. Detailed information about the personal gear are available on request or briefly explained about the gear list section of the page.

Extra money to bring
Without knowing your proper service selection of the expedition either Full Board expedition service, Base camp service or any other services, it is next to impossible to justify the correct amount you would need to bring, but there will be always only little money that you can bring for personal expenses such as souvenirs, drinks, personal equipment etc... Therefore, we advise you on this after your chosen expedition service. 

Experience of our guides / staffs
MOUNTAIN CLIMB has some of the most dependable and experienced guides / Climbing Sherpas. All of our guides / Climbing Sherpas have spent years climbing mountains and Lhotse Climbing experience with many times to the Summit, so you can be confident in our staffs.

Accommodations & toilet facility
We provide a single room for Lhotse Climb expedition members in Kathmandu. During your approach to/fro Lukla -Base camp you need to share room with other people as there are no single room facility in lodges. At Base camp you will be provided a single tent with thick mattress and pillow to make your sleep comfortable and at Camp I and above to Camp Four, you need to share tent with another member which will be also warmer. There will be also a separate toilet and shower tent facility at Base Camp. 

Environmental Responsibility 
Our approach is to raise environmental awareness among Climbers making the Lhotse expedition an Eco-Lhotse expedition. We also give information to our valued clients on how to minimize maximum damage on the environment. We clean up and bring all our garbage back from Base Camp and from the mountain as far as possible produced during the expedition. Yearly we invest 3% of our net profit for the above purpose and furthermore, in participating in various social works in Nepal. We always heartily welcome and enchant your comments and suggestions for a better way to serve our customers, environment and nature.

Apart from above if you have any further comments or suggestion, please write us: info@mountain-climbs.com


All Lhotse Climb expediiton Material © Mountain Climb P. Ltd.                           

Trip Facts

Mount Lhotse
World’s 4th highest mountain

Elevation: 8,516 m / 27,940ft.
Coordinates: 86°56’00”E-27°57’42”N, located in Himalaya (Sagarmatha Zone, Nepal – Tibet, China border)
Activity: Mountaineering expedition
Grade: 4 (needs high level of physical fitness & climbing experience at least above 7000m)
First Ascent: Fritz Luchsinger & Ernst Reiss, Swiss climbed Lhotse on 18th May 1956
Listing: Eight-tousander
Starting from: Lukla                                Ending at: Lukla

Lhotse Climb Fixed departure expedition 2019  
Days Spring Outlined itinerary Overnight
1 3-Apr Arrive at Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel. Hotel
2 4-Apr At leisure in Kathmandu/official formalities.  Hotel
3 5-Apr Kathmandu at leisure/administrative formalities. Hotel
4 6-Apr Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2840m) and trek to Phakding (2652m). Lodge
5 7-Apr Trek to Namche Bazaar (3445m). Lodge
6 8-Apr At leisure in Namche Bazaar (3445m). Lodge
7 9-Apr Trek to Tyangboche (3,867m).  Lodge
8 10-Apr Trek via Pangboche to Dingboche (4400m).  Lodge
9 11-Apr Rest day at Dingboche.        Lodge
10 12-Apr Trek to Lobuche (4,912m).  Lodge
11 13-Apr Trek to Base Camp (5300m) Camp
12 14-Apr Climb Mt. Lhotse using 3 camps above base camp. Camp
13 15-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
14 16-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
15 17-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
16 18-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
17 19-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
18 20-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
19 21-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
20 22-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
21 23-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
22 24-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
23 25-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
24 26-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
25 27-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
26 28-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
27 29-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
28 30-Apr Lhotse Climbing Camp
29 1-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
30 2-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
31 3-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
32 4-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
33 5-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
34 6-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
35 7-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
36 8-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
37 9-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
38 10-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
39 11-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
40 12-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
41 13-May Lhotse Climbing Camp
42 14-May Climbing period of Mt. Lhotse (8,516 m) Camp
43 15-May Cleaning up / Withdraw Base Camp. Camp
44 16-May Return trek to Pangboche (4000m).  Lodge
45 17-May Namche Bazaar (3445m). Lodge
46 18-May Trek to Lukla (2840m).  Lodge
47 19-May Fly back to Katmandu & transfer to Hotel.  Hotel
48 20-May At leisure in Katmandu.  Hotel
49 21-May Transfer to airport for international departure. /////

Lhotse Climb Full expedition service cost includes:
•    4 nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast basis,
•    Airport-hotel-airport transfers,
•    Internal Flight ticket with airport tax,
•    Lhotse Climbing and all other applicable permits,
•    Cargo clearance & duties fees,
•    2 members : 1 Professional High altitude climbing Sherpa backed Base Camp cook & kitchen helpers,
•    1 Government liaison officer,
•    Daily wages, equipment allowance, insurance, food for above mentioned staff, porters and Liaison officer,
•    3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch & dinner) throughout the expedition period at Base camp & while approach to/from Base camp,
•    Base camp tent with thick mattress, chair, table, dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, shower tent,
•    65 kg weight allowed per member for personal equipment,
•    Transportation of all food supply & expedition equipments to / from Base camp,
•    Garbage shipped off charges from Base Camp,
•    1 member : 3 Oxygen and 1 climbing Sherpa: 2 Oxygen with mask and regulator,
•    High altitude (above Base camp) food,  fuel for member & climbing Sherpas,
•    High altitude tent, ropes, snow bar, rock piton, fixings, shovel, ice-screws etc…
•    1 Gamow bag / O2 for emergency use  only,
•    Satellite phone, Walkie-Talkies,
•    Solar panel for power supply,
•    Emergency Helicopter rescue arrangements,

Cost excludes

•    Travel to /from Nepal,
•    Lunch and Dinner in Kathmandu, drinks, postage, telephone bills & all items of personal nature,
•    Personal travel, high risk, accidental and medical insurance of member,
•    Climbing Sherpa summit bonus US$  885 per Sherpa, US$ 490 per person (those who do not go to summit due to client reason),
•    Respective expenses if one returns earlier from the expedition due to sickness or emergency purpose.
•    Any extra services not mentioned herein cost inclusion

Lhotse Climb  Base camp service includes:
•    4 nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast basis,
•    Airport-hotel-airport transfers,
•    Internal flight tickets with airport tax,
•    Lhotse Climbing and all other applicable permits,
•    Cargo clearance & duties fees,
•    Base Camp cook & kitchen helpers,
•    1 Government liaison officer,
•    Daily wages, equipment allowance, insurance, food for above mentioned staff, porters and Liaison officer,
•    3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch and dinner) throughout the expedition period at Base camp and while approach to/from Base camp,
•    Base camp tent with thick mattress, chair, table, dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, shower tent,
•    50 kg weight allowed per member for personal equipment,
•    Transportation of all food supply & expedition equipments to / from Base camp,
•    Garbage shipped off charges from Base Camp,
•    1 Gamow bag / O2 for emergency use  only,
•    Solar panel for power supply,
•    Emergency Helicopter rescue arrangements,

Cost excludes
•    Travel to /from Nepal,
•    Lunch and Dinner in Kathmandu, drinks, postage, telephone bills & all items of personal nature,
•    Personal travel, high risk, accidental and medical insurance of member,
•    Any services above Base camp,
•    Respective expenses if one returns earlier from the expedition due to sickness or emergency purpose.
•    Any extra services not mentioned herein cost inclusion

Lhotse Climb Gear list
Group climbing equipment, including fuel, stoves, ropes, fixings, tents, snow bars is supplied from Mountain Climb for Full Board expedition service whereas Climbers will need to provide their own personal equipment.

Lhotse Climb suggested Personal Gear List
 TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

•    1 Climbing Harness
•    1 pair of climbing boot.
•    1 pair of Gaiter
•    1 pair of Strong Crampon
•    Perlon. 6 mm, 40ft long.
•    1 pair of Ski or trekking pole
•    1 Daypack (approx 50 lit)
•    1 Backpack (approx 100 lit).
•    1 Ice-Axe with leash (60 cm)
•    2 Jumar (Ascender)
•    1 Belay device: ATC or figure 8.
•    Carabiners: 4 Screw-gate (locking) and 6 regular twist-lock.

FOR SLEEPING
•    1 High Altitude Sleeping Bag (Expedition quality minus 20° C)
•    1 B.C. Sleeping Bag (minus 20° C)
•    1 Therma-Rest foam pad.
•    1 Foam pad

FOR HEAD
•    1 Woolen warm hat that fully covers your ears
•    1 Good sun hat or baseball cap
•    2 Bandanas or Neck gaiter
•    Thick balaclava, very thin balaclava or face mask
•    Sun cream (2 small tubes).
•    Balaclava: 1 heavyweight & 1 lightweight
•    Lips cream (2 sticks).

FOR HAND
•    1 pr polypro gloves.
•    1 pr heavy wool mitts.
•    1 pr over mitts (Gore-tex) double liners
•    1 pair of fleece/ wind stopper glove

CLOTHES
•    1 Thick fleece pant
•    1 Fleece jacket
•    4 T-shirts
•    2 Cotton pants or trekking pants
•    2 expedition T-shirts
•    1 wind proof jacket (Gore-tex)
•    1 Pile jacket: 1 Heavyweight pile
•    1 Pile pant
•    3-4 pieces of regular lightweight underwear. Synthetic or wool, but no cotton!
•    2 expedition weight underwear
•    1 Long underwear
•    1 Long-sleeved shirts
•    1 Down Suit
•    1 Down Jacket
•    1 Down Pant.
•    1 Down parka
•    Down suit if you do not have thick down jacket and down pants.
•    Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with hood.

FOR LEGS
•    1 Light hiking boots or trekking shoes
•    1 pair of sandle or Sport shoes or low top shoes
•    4 pair brand new wool or Pile Climbing socks
•    4 pair brand new liner socks. Thin wool, nylon
•    Vapor barrier socks(Optional)
•    Some lightweight socks

BITS AND PIECES:
•    Plastic bags
•    2 lighters
•    Notebook/pens/pencil
•    Reading material
•    Music player and tapes (if prefer music)
•    2 Locks
•    Games- if you prefer(cards, dice, mastermind, rumicub, uno, frisbee, small ball etc.
•    Money pouch/belt/inside pocket
•    Clothes peg
•    Ear plugs     PRIMARY ESSENTIALS
•    Passport and some copies
•    2x Passport photos
•    Credit card
•    Traveller's cheques
•    $ cash, some in small bills
•    Important addresses and phone numbers
•    Airline Tickets

MISCELLANEUS
•    A good quality small Camera (Optional)
•    1 Water bottle.
•    1 Liter Thermos Flask
•    1 Pee bottle
•    Two sets of high quality Sunglasses (100% UV, IR)
•    1 Ski Goggle. 100% UV & IR.
•    1 Swiss Army knife
•    Compressions stuff sacks
•    1 Headlamp with spare batteries and bulbs
•    2 Large good quality duffle bags with lock.
•    Cup:
•    Bowl
•    Spoon

TOILETRIES
•    Lip salve, Razor, Toothpaste, Toothbrush, Moisturizer, Shaving cream, Liquid soap (biodegradable). There should be sufficient throughout the duration of your expedition.
•    Small towels (2) Nail clipper, Mirror, Scissors

HEALTH CONSIDERATIONS/MEDICINE
Acute Mountain Sickness (if going above 2500m)
Diamox (Acetazolamite) 250mg

Antibiotics
Ciproloxacin 500mg or norfloxacin 400mg

Antibiotic/anti-fungal skin application
Antibiotic (mupirocin 2%) ointment (15gm tube), Antifungal (clotrimazole or miconazole) cream

Allergy Inflammation & Itch
Anti-inflammatory cream/ointment/gel, hydrocortisone cream 1%

Antiseptic
Povi-Iodine (Betadine), Savlon or Dettol soap, burn cream silver sulphadiazine (20 gm tube)

Disinfectant for water
Iodine tabs or iodine solution eg. Lugol's or iodine crystals (25ml with dropper)

Diarrhea
Imodium or Lomotil caps

Eye and Ear infection
Antibiotic drops or ointment for eye and ear

Indigestion
Antacid tabs

Nausea and Vomitting
Maxolon or Stemetil

Painkillers (Analgesics)
Paracetamol, ibuprofen 400mg
Oral Rehydration Solution
Oralyte, Gastrolyte, or Electrobion (2 pacs)

DRESSING AND WOUND CARE
Bandaids, Cotton buds, gauze squares, Sterile non stick dressing 10 cm, small roll of 10 cm adhesive tape bandage, elastic bandage 10 cm, closures eg. Steristrips 6 mm wide

INSTRUMENTS
Tweezers, scissors, sewing needle, safety pins, latex gloves

IMMUNISATION
At least six weeks before the departure you will need to consult your doctor to work out an immunization schedules relevant to the Himalayas. You should normally be immunized against Tetanus, Polio, Hepatitis A, Cholera, though you must also contact your doctor for necessary immunization details.

Vaccinations against the following diseases may be useful, although they might be difficult or expensive to obtain. Your doctor will let you know if they are appropriate:
-Rabies.
-Meningitis.
-Japanese Encephalitis.

DENTAL CHECKS
It is most important that you have a through dental examination before the expedition and have any necessary treatment carried out. Dental treatment on the mountain is likely to be drastic and traumatic!

Insurance
All climbing members as well as support staffs must be insured before commencing on an Expedition. It is advised that you buy the Insurance Policy right from the home Country through a reliable Insurance company covering medical, accidental and rescue evacuation. Please ensure with your insurance company whether they really cover the risk for such high altitude mountaineering expedition.

©Mountain Climb P. Ltd.                                                                                   
www.Mountain-Climbs.com
Payment to Mountain Climb

An advance of 25% of the total cost is required when booking expedition, to be paid at least three month before departure to Mountain Climb.

The balance must reach us at least two months prior to expedition date to confirm a place/s. It can also be paid in Kathmandu before expedition departure on mutual agreement but on certain special condition only.

Mountain Climb reserve the right not to operate expedition without FULL payment receipt before departure for an expedition.

 We do accept last minute bookings if places are open for any departure (up to three weeks before trip date) in a first come, first served basis.

A group / individual participant must arrive Kathmandu at least two days in advance (4 days for Tibet expedition) in order to process your expedition or Tibet permits.

Mountain Climb Cancellation policy

In event of cancellation of your expedition the following charges will be made:
-More than 7 weeks before departure - Deposit amount
-6 weeks before departure date - 25% of total cost
-4 weeks before departure date - 50% of total cost
-Less than 3 weeks before departure date - No Refund.

Please provide us your bank transferred receipt, after the transfer of payment to our account.

Note!
We regret to inform you that we do not accept personal cheques or credit cards due to complicated bank procedures and delays.

Your Complete Financial Protection
Being a reputed and responsible Climbing Expedition organizer company, you can book your trip with Mountain Climb in complete confidence that all monies you deposit / pay for a trip are fully protected.

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