Mera Peak Climb

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Mera is the highest & most popular trekking peak in Nepal technically as Alpine graded "F" (Facile or easy) that only requires a basic level of mountaineering skills and experience. The fact that it lies in a beautiful, uninhabited region and boasts a summit that gives superb views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kangchenjunga and Cho-Oyu etc.

Mountain Climb has been organizing trips to Mera peak every year with great success rate as our approach route Mera is longer than that provided by most expedition organizers in order to increase to the acclimatization process, exploration of the region.  After flying from Kathmandu to Lukla STOL we head south before crossing to a ridge to reach the Hinku valley, and following this north we ascend steadily to the Mera La at 5416m. From our top camp on the glacier above Mera La, a steady low angeled climb leads to a final short and steep section which guards the summit and provides  fitting climax to the climb.

After the Mera peak climb, we descend down crossing Zatrawala then to Lukla for flying back to kathmandu making the trip a great memorable.

 Mera Peak Team composition
An English speaking high altitude Sherpa guide with assistants and kitchen crews and number of porters will accompany the Mera peak trip. A maximum of 16 places are available to climbers and fit trekkers who are seeking an introduction to Himalayan mountaineering in a spectacular region.
 
Outlined itinerary  
Day Stage Outlined Itinerary
Overnight
1   Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.  Hotel
2 1 Fly to Lukla (2880m) and trek to Payun (2,794m). Camp
3 2 Trek to Pangkongma (2,850m).  Camp
4 3 Nashing Dingma (2,600m) Camp
5 4 Chalem Kharka (3,600m) Camp
6 5 Chunbu Kharka (4,200m) Camp
7 6 Rest day at Chunbu Kharka Camp
8 7 Descent into the Hinku Valley, camp around 3000m Camp
9 8 Thangnak (4,350m).  Camp
10 9 Acclimatization day in Thangnak.  Camp
11 10 Trek to Khare (5,100m).  Camp
12 11 Acclimatization day in Khare.  Camp
13 12 Trek to Mera La (5,415m).                                                       Camp
14 13 Trek to High Camp (5,800m).  Camp
15 14 Mera Peak Ascent (6,476m/21,246ft) and return to Khare.  Camp
16 15 Contingency day. Camp
17 16 Descend to Tagnag (4350m) Camp
18 17 Descend to Kothe (4120m) Camp
19 18 Trek to Thuli Kharka (4300m).  Camp
20 19 Trek to Lukla (2880m).                             Lodge
21   Fly Lukla/Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.  Hotel
22   At leisure in Kathmandu.  Hotel
23   Departure from Kathmandu……  

Detailed Mera Peak climbing Itinerary

 Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.

Day 02: Fly to Lukla (2880m) and trek to Payun (2,794m).

We begin our Mera Peak climbing trip in Lukla after a great mountain flight from Kathmandu over the Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our flight, we will get our first views of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing. The Twin Otter aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla, which is the start of our trek to Mera. Here we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off descend to our first night camp at Payun.

Day 03: Trek to Pangkongma (2,850m).

After crossing the Payun Khola, we turn off the main trade route coming up from the south and join an older route, which climbs steeply to the ridge-line overlooking Khari Khola village. Descending the other side of the ridge, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma.

Day 04: Nashing Dingma (2,600m)

With fine views westwards towards Takshindu monastery and Lamjura, we climb through thick rhododendron forest and bamboo leading to the Pangkongma La. From here, we have good views of the south face of Mera with its twin peaks and of its neighbour Naulekh. We then make a scenic descent with beautiful views looking south across the endless foothills rising each side of the Hinku valley. This steep descent leads down to the wire rope bridge that spans the Hinku Khola. A steep, strenuous climb on the opposite side leads to Nashing Dingma. We stay here for the night at the excellent campsite established by the Makalu National Park.

Day 05: Chalem Kharka (3,600m).

Gaining height gradually through pasture and lush greenery, the trail steepens as we climb up to the Surke La. It is possible to take a nice, welcome cup of tea in a lodge just over the pass. Walking on, eventually, we reach an attractive campsite at a col 1km beyond Chalem Kharka, set among fir trees and rhododendron bushes

Day 06: Chunbu Kharka (4,200m)

Climbing the side of a ridge, we emerge from the last traces of rhododendron and the terrain becomes more rugged. Passing through high grazing country and crossing a small pass, we are treated to some excellent views of Jannu Himal and Kangchenjunga to the east. We continue climbing to Panch Pokari and then on to camp at Chunbu Kharka.

Day 07: Rest day at Chunbu Kharka

Today, we have a well-earned rest day. Whether you take it easy and relax, or scramble some of the nearby rocky outcrops, this is a rewarding day and a useful aid to acclimatisation before we go higher up.

Day 08: Descent into the Hinku Valley,

Setting off from Chunbu Kharka and contour around the main Hinku valley before making a series of steep descents through scree and then rhododendron. We eventually arrive on the valley floor and witness the incredible devastation caused by a natural damn at the head of the valley bursting in 1998. The valley floor has been torn to pieces, leaving boulders, dead trees and silt where once there was an ancient forest. Our campsite is on a pleasant grassy patch, on the now much higher bank of the rocky riverbed. This is a short day and we can spend the afternoon exploring the rather extreme terrain.

Day 09: Thangnak (4,350m).

Today, we follow the dry riverbed up the valley to Tangnag. We have a tricky river crossing, using a fallen log to balance our way over the fast flowing water. Having crossed to the north side of the river, we continue until we can climb onto the grassy bank and easier walking! A magnificent, towering mountain, rather unimaginatively known by its survey name of Peak 39, dominates the head of the valley. The trail now leads steadily up the side of the valley through open pasture, used for the summer grazing of yaks brought up from the lower reaches of the valley. Finally, we reach Tangnag, which has grown into a small hamlet of tea-shops and a lodge since expeditions first started to frequent this region of Nepal.

Day 10: Acclimatization day in Thangnak
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Thgnak is a location to have an acclimatization day and we will prepare and check our climbing gear also. There are many good ridges and slopes to trek up for a few hours and spend valuable time acclimatizing ourselves at these greater heights. We aim to gain at least 500m following a ridge behind the village as a side excursion on this day. There are views of peaks towards Kusum Kanguru and across towards Mera.

Day 11: Trek to Khare (5,100m).

We trek up to Khare heading up from Thangnak towards the Mera Base camp at Khare, a good trail leads up and across the moraine which dams Charpatti Tal, and reaches a high point lined with cairns overlooking the glacial lake in about 30 minutes. From here the trail descends slightly to cross a sandy bowl and then climbs alongside a khola or stream to the large pasture of Dig Kharka. Here we cross the khola on stepping stones and then climb for a further hour and a half to Khare, the base camp for Mera Peak.

Day 12: Acclimatization day in Khare.
This is another acclimatization day, in final preparation for the climb

Day 13: Trek to Mera La (5,415m).
Leaving base camp, we first climb to the crest of the moraine above Khare and then steeply up a slope of scree or snow to reach a boulder-strewn bowl below the lower tongue of the Mera Glacier. We should reach this point in 1½ hrs from Khare. The route crosses the bowl and climbs the ground to the right of the tongue to a large rock platform beside the glacier. Here, we will put on our crampons and climb 30 – 35 degree snow or ice for 10 or 15 minutes to reach the plateau leading to the Mera La. Unless there has been recent snowfall, there will be a good trail which weaves its way around and between the crevasses toward the Mera-La. It is about an hour’s walk across the plateau to reach the pass itself. It is possible to camp in many places on the wide expanse of the Mera-La but it is better to drop down 300 feet on the Hongu side to a good, sheltered site that enjoys the early morning sun.

Day 14: Trek to High Camp (5,800m).

Today, we make the climb to the high camp. This is located at about 5,800 m on the Northern slopes of the upper mountain. It provides an excellent launch pad for the final climb to the summit. There is no need to make an early start but we must get our equipment ready so that the Sherpas can help with carrying this and the camp stores to the high camp. Having gained the Mera La, the route turns left (south) and follows easy angled snow slopes. After a short distance an area of crevasses is reached. Under normal conditions these can be walked around very easily, although looking into their deep, dark depths is always impressive. The crevasses soon give way to slightly steeper but open snow slopes that lead without difficulty to the high camp. This camp is in an excellent setting with wonderful views of Everest, Makalu and the Nuptse, Lhotse wall directly ahead. The setting sun casts an unbelievably magic light on these awesome mountains.

Day 15: Mera Peak Ascent (6,476m/21,246ft) and return to Khare.

The climb to the summit of Mera starts gradually and much will depend on snow and general weather conditions. The central summit will soon appear above the head of a wide glacier flanked by two ridges. We climb the centre of this over open snowfields and avoiding crevasses. The route then swings south-east, skirting below and to the east of the left-hand ridge before turning back rightwards towards the main summit ridge of Mera. Mera actually has three summits; the highest is our objective. We reach this by following a classic snow-ridge to just below the final wall that guards the top. This short steep snow slope is easily climbed but there is a big effort required to climb this last 50 m. Your reward, however, is a feeling of ecstatic jubilation as you survey the magnificent panorama from the top. After taking pictures and enjoying the view, we descend by the same route back to our campsite below the Mera-La.

Day 16: Contingency Day
Today is a contingency day allowed for inclement weather, and or poor conditions on the mountain. People not wanting or able to continue on to the summit bid on the mountain are able to stay comfortably at our base camp in a grassy hollow with easy short walks possible and mountain views all around. One or two of our staff at least will mind the camp along with the porters.

Day 17: Descend to Tagnag (4350m)
Feeling tired and exhilarated by our adventure, we pack up and descend the two hours to the permanent settlement in the valley and a climb party prepared by our cooks.

Day 18: Descending the valley to Kothe (4120m)
Retracing our steps we follow the pastures and juniper meadows for a couple of hours before dropping down to the river bed and walking through the boulder strewn path to Kote. Kote is a large collection of timber huts that have spilled out on to the river bed and very much a ‘half way house’ for porters and trekkers going to Mera.

Day 19: Trek to Thuli Kharka (4300m)
After an initial meander through the forest and beside the river, the path then winds up through thick forest of birch, rhododendron and pine, seemingly forever. It is not long before we break out of the forest, to small shrub like rhododendron and then above the tree line altogether as we traverse around numerous ridges to our last camp at Chetrabu, or Thuli Kharka. It will be a solid seven hour day winding our way up to camp but we are also trekking fit now and have established a steady trekking pace that makes it manageable. In clear weather much of Mera Himal can be seen and remote valleys leading up to its south side, a small reward for our ascent.

Day 20: Trek to Lukla (2800m)
A short steady climb up to the pass of Zatrwa La (approx 4600m), and then another 45mins or so on another pass of Zatrywa Ogg a little lower and our last before the long descent. The terrain and countryside is spectacular, with expansive views to the south and west; to Karyolug and Numbur and rows and rows of foothills. Initially it is a steep descent over rock slabs, snow and ice, and then steep pastures down to the rhododendron forests which show the first signs of permanent farming activities. It is a long, long way to the relatively steamy environment of Lukla, so take your time, but maintain your pace or it will be a very long day. Most people don’t need too much encouragement on our last day’s trek, with the thought of cold drinks and so on and a chance to put your feet up. It goes without saying that a good end of trek party will go off tonight.

Day 21: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
All going well, we will fly out of this small mountain airstrip on a very spectacular flight back to Kathmandu. On arrival, we will be met and transferred to the Hotel where there is no fixed program for the rest of the day. You can relax or shop, explore as you please.

Day 22: At leisure in Kathmandu.

A free day in Kathmandu. There is an ‘optional’ guided sightseeing tour of the city’s main attractions, including the Buddhist temple at Bodhnath and the principally Hindu temple complex at Pashupatinath. Alternatively, you may prefer to do your own thing, especially if you have visited Kathmandu before. One of the attractions of any visit to Nepal is the chance to walk the streets of Kathmandu, which presents a fascinating mosaic of shops, cafes and restaurants, food markets and street vendors, as well as a bewildering array of colorful temples and shrines of both the Buddhist and Hindu religions.
 
Day 23: Transfer to airport for international departure.
Our representative will meet you at the hotel and transfer to airport for onward international departure flight.

Cost includes:   
-3 nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on twin sharing bed & breakfast basis,
-Mera peak climbing permit & other applicable permits,
-Flight tickets: Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu with airport tax,
-Professional Guide(Sirdar), assistant Climbing guide with their summit bonus,
-Kitchen crews, porters
-Daily wages, insurance of above mentioned staffs and porters,
-3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch and dinner) throughout the trip
-All common climbing equipments: snow-bar, ice-screw, ropes, snow shovel,
-Complete camping equipments,
-All ground transportations: transfer from airport-hotel-airport,
-First Aid Medical Kit(only for staffs),
-Emergency helicopter rescue evacuation arrangements,

Cost excludes:
 -Air travel to/from Nepal,
-Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu,
-Drinks, laundry, postage, telephone bills, all items of personal nature,
-Personal clothing, insurance and emergency rescue evacuation,
-Departure tax at Kathmandu int'l airport,
-Personal travel, Accidental & Medical insurance of member,
-Emergency rescue evacuations if required,
-Respective expenses if one returns earlier from the trip due to sickness or emergency purpose.

We have noted some probable points related to Mera Peak Climbing trip whether they might help you:

Length of the Mera Peak trip
There are many options to approach Mera peak Base camp or Mera La, and depending on your time availability (minimum 16 days) we can customize the itinerary, but we suggest that you use our standard package which is carefully planned in terms of the acclimatization process and the overall enjoyment of the trip. Our daily walking /trekking lengh is 5-6 hours and from Mera La to the Mera Peak summit and back takes 9-11 hours depending on each member, and everyone can easily make this length of walking and climbing.

Administrative Formality / Climbing permit
As a professional Mountaineering expedition company we take every applicable formality for Mera Peak climbing trip seriously so that the member / client could enjoy a hassle free holiday. We process all the logistics related to this trip well in advance and therefore you are requested to send us a scan copy of your passport and passport size photograph for the permit process.

Difficulty of the Mera Peak Climb
 This is another major question frequently asked by many clients and as explained on the trip overview that Mera peak is one of the easiest (technically) climbing peaks that requires only a basic level of physical fitness, though to enjoy any adventure trip needs a passion, certain level of physical fitness etc…Our guides and assistant guides will accompany you throughout the trip (during climbing as well) helping related to anything, any issue about the trip and our careful planning of the itinerary and other logistics make your Mera Peak climb an enjoyable and memorable.

At an Emergency
MOUNTAIN CLIMB prides itself on being prepared for any emergency situation. Our guides / Sirdars are trained in first aid and can deal with most of the basic ailments that are associated with the Mera Peak trip. When a serious emergency does occur, then outside help is needed and such rescues are expensive therefore every climber should have his or her own insurance arranged before coming to Nepal. It is advised that you buy the Insurance Policy right from the home Country through a reliable Insurance company covering medical, accidental and rescue evacuation. Please ensure with your insurance company whether they really cover the risk for such trip.

Food safety & the types of food
Food safety to keep our expedition members is always a priority for us, therefore we brief you about the food safety before departure on an expedition. All food we take for Base camp use are freshly bought from the market, properly checked the date validity or freshness before dispatch to Lukla and all our cooks and kitchen staffs are trained in cooking varieties of hygienically prepared foods and good taste.

We serve three meals a day (breakfast, lunch and dinner) light with snacks on overnight arrival camp. Our well trained and experienced cook will prepare fresh and tasty meals and snacks. We will have plenty of food including the traditional Nepali meal Dal Bhat (rice, curry, and lentils), noodles, rice, potatoes, vegetables and soup and Nepalese versions of western food such as pizza and French fries and plenty of drinks such as tea, hot chocolates, coffee, juice etc…

Drinking water during Mera Peak trip
Our cooks will provide you well boiled water throughout the trip that is quite safe to drink though you may also buy mineral water at some tea houses.

Equipment you should bring
Choosing the right equipment is also an important for this. All group climbing equipments such as ropes, tents, snow bars, ice-screws, shovel, cooking pots are provided from Mountain Climb, whereas you (climbing members) need to have enough personal clothes to stay warm and good gears for climbing or cool yet not over packed. Usually you will have warm days and cold nights. Detailed suggested information about the personal gear are available on request or briefly explained about the gear list section of the page.

Extra money to bring
For Full Board service package there is very little money that you can bring for personal expenses such as souvenirs, drinks, personal equipment and tips etc..

Experience of our guides / staffs
MOUNTAIN CLIMB has some of the most dependable and experienced guides / Climbing Sherpas. All of our guides / Climbing Sherpas have spent years climbing mountains and several times to the summit of Mera Peak, so you can be fully confident in our staffs.

Accommodations & toilet facility
We provide standard selected room accommodation in Kathmandu. During your trip we provide high quality 1 tent for every 2 members members roomy enough for comfortable sleep and keep your luggages. You will be also provide a thick mattress to keep you warm from under ground. There will be also a separate toilet tent facility.

Environmental Responsibility
Mountain Climb is an Eco-Friendly organization and our approach is to raise environmental awareness among Climbers making the Mera Peak trip an Mera Peak trip. We also give information to our valued clients on how to minimize maximum damage on the environment. We clean up and bring all our garbage back from produced during the trip. As a CR (Corporate Responsibility), yearly we invest 3% of our net profit for the above purpose and furthermore, in participating in various social works in Nepal. We always heartily welcome your comments and suggestions for a better way to serve our customers, environmentally and naturally friendly way.

Apart from above if you have any further comments or suggestion, please write us:
info@mountain-climbs.com


All Mera Peak Climb tirp Material © Mountain Climb P. Ltd.          

Trip Facts

Mera Peak Climb
Ascent of Nepal’s highest trekking peak, trek through the beautiful Hinku & Hongu valley

Elevation: (6,476m/21,246ft)
Trip starting from: Lukla
Ending at: Lukla   
Grade:   F (Alpine grading)
Operation season: March-May, September-November
Location: Longitude 86° 53' 15'' - Latitude: 27° 42' 00''
Highest point of the trip: Mera La (5415m), Mera peak summit (6,476m)
Himalayan sights: Mt. Baruntse, Makalu, Everest, Kusum Kanguru, Lhotse, Nuptse, Kwangde, Island Peak etc.
Mode of trekking/Climbing: Camping


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Payment to Mountain Climb

An advance of 25% of the total cost is required when booking expedition, to be paid at least three month before departure to Mountain Climb.

The balance must reach us at least two months prior to expedition date to confirm a place/s. It can also be paid in Kathmandu before expedition departure on mutual agreement but on certain special condition only.

Mountain Climb reserve the right not to operate expedition without FULL payment receipt before departure for an expedition.

 We do accept last minute bookings if places are open for any departure (up to three weeks before trip date) in a first come, first served basis.

A group / individual participant must arrive Kathmandu at least two days in advance (4 days for Tibet expedition) in order to process your expedition or Tibet permits.

Mountain Climb Cancellation policy

In event of cancellation of your expedition the following charges will be made:
-More than 7 weeks before departure - Deposit amount
-6 weeks before departure date - 25% of total cost
-4 weeks before departure date - 50% of total cost
-Less than 3 weeks before departure date - No Refund.

Please provide us your bank transferred receipt, after the transfer of payment to our account.

Note!
We regret to inform you that we do not accept personal cheques or credit cards due to complicated bank procedures and delays.

Your Complete Financial Protection
Being a reputed and responsible Climbing Expedition organizer company, you can book your trip with Mountain Climb in complete confidence that all monies you deposit / pay for a trip are fully protected.

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