Putha Hiunchuli Climb

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Putha Hiunchuli is the westernmost peak of the Dhaulagiri long range to the west of Annapurna South of Ganesh Himal standing on the serene. Putha Hiunchuli is the last 7000m marking the end of the snow-capped range and also sometimes referred to as Dhaulagiri VI. Jimmy Roberts, a legendary explorer, climber and most possibly the father of modern-day trekking in Nepal, first climbed Putha Hiunchuli on 11th November, 1954 also a Nepali Sherpa Ang Nyima Sherpa reached to the summit on the same day. 

This is a rarely climbed peak with two distinct faces: a steep, technical ridge climb pioneered by the Japanese in the early 70s and a much easier snow climb up the northern flanks where the average angle does not exceed 35 degrees. We climbed this peak ourselves successfully twice on the same season in 1978 and few times later. Not many expedition team come to climb this peak, though it is one of the most magnificent, therefore we have the full chance to explore ourselves and avoid the crowds. The Base Camp is situated at an altitude of 4575m and from there we set up 3 camps (Camp I- 533m, Camp II-5940m, Camp III- 6475m) before attempting the summit. 

We first climbed Putha Hiunchuli ourselves in 1978, and being ourselves well knowledgeable about the expedition we are committed to provide professional service to make the expedition a success.

Why should you choose Mountain Climb for your Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
www.mountain-climbs.com/why-choose-mountain-climb.html

Putha Hiunchuli Climb fixed departure expedition 2018

Days

Spring

Autumn

Outlined itinerary

Overnight

1

24-Apr

27-Sep

Arrive Kathmandu, meet our representative
and transfer to hotel.

Hotel

2

25-Apr

28-Sep

Kathmandu at leisure / administrative
formalities.

Hotel

3

26-Apr

29-Sep

Fly Kathmandu-Nepalgunj and transfer to hotel.

Hotel

4

27-Apr

30-Sep

Fly Nepalgunj to Juphal, commence trek to Dunai

Camp

5

28-Apr

1-Oct

Trek to Tarakot 2500 m

Camp

6

29-Apr

2-Oct

Trek to  Mushi Khola

Camp

7

30-Apr

3-Oct

Trek to Mushi khola to Kakot

Camp

8

1-May

4-Oct

Acclimatization day

Camp

9

2-May

5-Oct

Move to the German Base Camp (4202 m)

Camp

10

3-May

6-Oct

Trek to Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp (4800 m)

Camp

11

4-May

7-Oct

Acclimatization /preparation for the ascent of
Putha Hiunchuli.

Camp

12

5-May

8-Oct

Acclimatization /preparation for the ascent of
Putha Hiunchuli.

Camp

13-24

6-May-17 May

9-Oct-20 Oct

Climb Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m / 23,773ft)
using 3 camps above Base Camp

Camp

25

18-May

21-Oct

Withdraw Base Camp & return to Kakot.

Camp

26

19-May

22-Oct

Trek to Laisi camp

Camp

27

20-May

23-Oct

Further to Mushi khola

Camp

28

21-May

24-Oct

Trek to Dunai

Camp

29

22-May

25-Oct

Short trek to Juphal and get ready for
the next day's fligh to Nepalgunj

Hotel

30

23-May

26-Oct

Fly Juphal-Nepalgunj and connection
flight to Kathmandu

Hotel

31

24-May

27-Oct

At leisure in Kathmandu.

Hotel

32

25-May

28-Oct

International departure.

// // //

We have noted few probable points related to Putha Hiunchuli Climb expedition whether they might be helpful to better prepare the expedition

Length of Putha Hiunchuli Expedition
Our Putha Hiunchuli Expedition total duration is 32 days (Kathmandu to Kathmandu), this duration is planned for the overall expedition including for administrative formalities, approach to Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp / fro Base Camp, acclimatization at Base camp, and above Base camp for the summit attempt etc….The daily walking /climbing / ascent duration depends on each camp basis, such as during duration for approach to Putha Hiunchuli Base camp in average is 5-6 hours, whereas from Base camp to Camp different camps is 4-5 hours in average. We set up 3 Camps above Base Camp and from Camp 3 we ascend to the
Putha Hiunchuli Summit and return back to Base Camp or Camp one and the duration is 9+ hours depending on each climber. The above average duration is just generalized, but the actual climbing duration depends on each climber.

Administrative Formality / climbing permit
There are some government formalities for obtaining the
Putha Hiunchuli Climbing permit, and as a professional Mountaineering expedition organizer company we take every administrative formalities for Climbing Putha Hiunchuli seriously so that the member/client could enjoy a hassle free Baruntse Climbing. We process the permits 3 months in advance, therefore you are requested to send the relevant documents (please print them, fill up, scan them & send us by e-mail along with a scan passport photograph):
If you are a member of the
Putha Hiunchuli Expedition  userfiles/Member Bio-data.doc
For Leader of the
Putha Hiunchuli Expedition need extra doc userfiles/Leader doc-Mountain Climb(1).doc
Risk & Release for each
Putha Hiunchuli Expedition member userfiles/Assumption of Risk & Release.doc

Difficulty of
Putha Hiunchuli Climb
This is another major question frequently asked. And the answer to this is rather simple; the difficulty of any mountaineering depends on your previous climbing experience, physical fitness, mental preparedness etc…
Putha Hiunchuli climbing is of course not technically difficult but due to its harsh weather conditions, altitudes etc, can affect the climber and our team of climbing sherpas fix ropes at difficult sections of the climb and if you be bit careful about using your personal equipments such as you must not forget to clip on your safety karabiners on fixed lines, step up your crampons carefully etc, the climb is not difficult, but for altitudinal adaptation, though the expedition is well planned in terms of proper acclimatization, at the same time we advise you have some previous climbing experience or use of technical climbing equipments and do some training before you come on the expedition such as jogging, running, long walking, cardio vascular exercises etc. It is also important that you have general check up with your doctor before coming on the expedition.

At an Emergency
MOUNTAIN CLIMB prides itself on being prepared for any emergency situation. Our guides / Sirdars are trained in first aid and can deal with most of the basic ailments that are associated with the Putha Hiunchuli Climbing / mountaineering. When a serious emergency does occur, then outside help is needed and such rescues are expensive therefore every climber should have his or her own insurance arranged before coming to Nepal. It is advised that you buy the Insurance Policy right from the home Country through a reliable Insurance company covering medical, accidental and rescue evacuation. Please ensure with your insurance company whether they really cover the risk for such high altitude mountaineering expeditions.

Food safety & the types of food
Food safety to keep our expedition members is always a concern for us, therefore we brief you about the food safety before departure on an expedition. All food we take for Base camp use are freshly bought from the market, properly checked the date validity or freshness before we dispatch for the expedition and all our cooks and kitchen staffs are trained in cooking varieties of hygienically prepared foods and good taste.

During approach to / fro Base camp you will have your breakfast and dinner at your teahouse. We stop for lunch at one of the various trailside restaurants. And snacks are always easy to find. During your stay at Base Camp our well trained and experienced cook will prepare fresh and tasty meals and snacks. We will have plenty of food including the traditional Nepali meal Dal Bhat (rice, curry, and lentils), noodles, rice, potatoes, vegetables and soup and Nepalese versions of western food such as pizza and French fries too. There will be also various types of snacks such as biscuits, chocolates, nuts etc also special cakes prepared by our cook with plenty of drinks such as tea, hot chocolates, coffee, juice etc… And for the Full board expedition service food for higher camps above base camp will be various types of light / energy foods such as chocolate bars, dry fruits, biscuits, tea, coffee, sugar, whole meal packed food etc….

Drinking water during expedition
During approach from the expedition starting point to Base camp and Back to the finishing point your guide will provide you with all the water you need during your trek to Base Camp, though you may also buy bottled water on the trail, but we do not encourage much on this as the plastic bottles are difficult to dispose off and have become an environmental problem. During your stay at Base camp the water source is either from a small stream or snow melting that our cooks boil and 100% safe to drink or cooking. Above Base camp in the mountains the water source is from snow melting which is safe for drinking as well.

Equipment you should bring
Choosing the right equipment is very important especially for climbing. All group climbing equipments such as ropes, tents, snow bars, ice-screws, shovel, cooking pots are provided from Mountain Climb for full board expedition service, whereas you need to have enough personal clothes to stay warm and good gears for climbing or cool yet not over packed. Usually you will have warm days and very cold nights. Detailed information about the personal gear are available on request or briefly explained about the gear list section of the page.

Extra money to bring
Without knowing your proper service selection of the expedition either Full Board expedition service, Base camp service or any other services, it is next to impossible to justify the correct amount you would need to bring, but there will be always only little money that you can bring for personal expenses such as souvenirs, drinks, personal equipment etc... Therefore, we advise you on this after your chosen expedition service.

Experience of our guides / staffs
MOUNTAIN CLIMB has some of the most dependable and experienced guides / Climbing Sherpas. All of our guides / Climbing Sherpas have spent years climbing mountains and
Putha Hiunchuli Climbing experience with several times to the Summit, so you can be confident in our staffs.

Accommodations & toilet facility
We provide a single room for Putha Hiunchuli Climb expedition in Kathmandu. During your approach to
Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp one tent for 2 members will be provided whereas at  Base camp you will be provided a single tent with thick mattress and pillow to make your sleep comfortable and at Camp I and above you need to share tent with another member which will be also warmer. There will be also a separate toilet and shower tent facility at Base Camp.

Environmental Responsibility
Our approach is to raise environmental awareness among Climbers making the
Putha Hiunchuli Climb expedition an Eco-Putha Hiunchuli Expedition. We also give information to our valued clients on how to minimize maximum damage on the environment. We clean up and bring all our garbage back from Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp and from the mountain as far as possible produced during the expedition. Yearly we invest 3% of our net profit for the above purpose and furthermore, in participating in various social works in Nepal. We always heartily welcome and enchant your comments and suggestions for a better way to serve our customers, environment and nature.

Apart from above if you have any further comments or suggestion, please write us: info@mountain-climbs.com


All Putha Hiunchuli expedition material ©mountain-climbs.com

Trip Facts

Putha Hiunchuli Climb

Elevation: 7,246m / 23,773ft  
Coordinates: 28°44′50″N-83°08′55″E, located in Dhaulagiri Himal, Nepal
Activity: Mountaineering expedition
Duration: 32 days
Grade: 2 (needs high level of physical fitness & climbing experience at least above 7000m)
First Ascent: Jimmy Roberts & Ang Nyima Sherpa first climbed Putha Hiunchuli on 11th November 1954
Our own first climbing of the mountain: 1974 with German Team
Starting from: Dunai, Dolpo                                Ending at: Dunai, Dolpo

Putha Hiunchuli Climb Fixed departure Expedition 2018/2019

Days Spring Autumn Outlined itinerary Overnight
1 14-Apr 1-Oct Arrive Kathmandu, meet our representative and transfer to hotel. Hotel
2 15-Apr 2-Oct At leisure in Kathmandu / administrative formalities. Hotel
3 16-Apr 3-Oct Fly Kathmandu-Nepalgunj and transfer to hotel.  Hotel
4 17-Apr 4-Oct Fly Nepalgunj to Juphal, commence trek to Dunai  Camp
5 18-Apr 5-Oct Trek to Tarakot 2500 m Camp
6 19-Apr 6-Oct Trek to  Mushi Khola Camp
7 20-Apr 7-Oct Trek to Mushi khola to Kakot Camp
8 21-Apr 8-Oct Acclimatization day Camp
9 22-Apr 9-Oct Move to the German Base Camp (4202 m) Camp
10 23-Apr 10-Oct Trek to Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp (4800 m) Camp
11 24-Apr 11-Oct Acclimatization /preparation for the ascent of Putha Hiunchuli. Camp
12 25-Apr 12-Oct Acclimatization /preparation for the ascent of Putha Hiunchuli. Camp
13 26-Apr 13-Oct Climb Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m –23,773ft) using 3 camps above Base Camp Camp
14 27-Apr 14-Oct Putha Hiunchuli Climbing Camp
15 28-Apr 15-Oct Putha Hiunchuli Climbing Camp
16 29-Apr 16-Oct Putha Hiunchuli Climbing Camp
17 30-Apr 17-Oct Putha Hiunchuli Climbing Camp
18 1-May 18-Oct Putha Hiunchuli Climbing Camp
19 2-May 19-Oct Putha Hiunchuli Climbing Camp
20 3-May 20-Oct Putha Hiunchuli Climbing Camp
21 4-May 21-Oct Putha Hiunchuli Climbing Camp
22 5-May 22-Oct Putha Hiunchuli Climbing Camp
23 6-May 23-Oct Putha Hiunchuli Climbing Camp
24 7-May 24-Oct Putha Hiunchuli Climbing Camp
25 8-May 25-Oct Withdraw Base Camp & return to Kakot. Camp
26 9-May 26-Oct Trek to Laisi camp Camp
27 10-May 27-Oct Further to Mushi khola Camp
28 11-May 28-Oct Trek to Dunai Camp
29 12-May 29-Oct Short trek to Juphal and get ready for the next day's fligh to Nepalgunj Hotel
30 13-May 30-Oct Fly Juphal-Nepalgunj and connection flight to Kathmandu Hotel
31 14-May 31-Oct At leisure in Kathmandu.  Hotel
32 15-May 1-Nov International departure. // // //

Putha Hiunchuli Climb Full expedition service includes:
•    4 nights standard hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast basis,
•    Airport-hotel-airport transfers,
•    Internal flight tickets with airport tax,
•    Putha Hiunchuli Climbing and all other applicable permits,
•    Cargo clearance & duties fees,
•    3 member : 1 Professional High altitude climbing Sherpa backed Base Camp cook & kitchen helpers,
•    1 Government liaison officer,
•    Daily wages, equipment allowance, insurance, food for above mentioned staff, porters and Liaison officer,
•    3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch & dinner) throughout the expedition period at Base camp & while approach         to/from Base camp,
•    Base camp tent with thick mattress, chair, table, dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, shower tent,
•    31 kg weight allowed per member for personal equipment,
•    Transportation of all food supply & expedition equipments to / from Base camp,
•    Garbage shipped off charges from Base Camp,
•    High altitude (above Base camp) food,  fuel for member & climbing Sherpas,
•    High altitude tent, ropes, snow bar, rock piton, fixings, shovel, ice-screws etc…
•    1 Gamow bag / O2 for emergency use  only,
•    Satellite phone, Walkie-Talkies,
•    Solar panel for power supply,
•    Emergency Helicopter rescue arrangements,

Cost excludes

•    Travel to /from Nepal,
•    Lunch and Dinner in Kathmandu, drinks, postage, telephone bills & all items of personal nature,
•    Personal travel, high risk, accidental and medical insurance of member,
•    Climbing Sherpa summit bonus US$ 490 per Sherpa, US$ 280 per person (those who do not go to summit due to client reason),
•    Respective expenses if one returns earlier from the expedition due to sickness or emergency purpose.
•    Any extra services not mentioned herein cost inclusion

Putha Hiunchuli Climb Base camp service includes:
•    4 nights standard hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast basis,
•    Airport-hotel-airport transfers,
•    Internal flight tickets with airport tax,
•    Putha Hiunchuli Climbing and all other applicable permits,
•    Cargo clearance & duties fees,
•    Base Camp cook & kitchen helpers,
•    1 Government liaison officer,
•    Daily wages, equipment allowance, insurance, food for above mentioned staff, porters and Liaison officer,
•    3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch and dinner) throughout the expedition period at Base camp and while             approach to/from Base camp,
•    Base camp tent with thick mattress, chair, table, dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, shower tent,
•    31 kg weight allowed per member for personal equipment,
•    Transportation of all food supply & expedition equipments to / from Base camp,
•    Garbage shipped off charges from Base Camp,
•    1 Gamow bag / O2 for emergency use  only,
•    Solar panel for power supply,
•    Emergency Helicopter rescue arrangements,

Cost excludes
•    Travel to /from Nepal,
•    Lunch and Dinner in Kathmandu, drinks, postage, telephone bills & all items of personal nature,
•    Personal travel, high risk, accidental and medical insurance of member,
•    Any services above Base camp,
•    Respective expenses if one returns earlier from the expedition due to sickness or emergency purpose.
•    Any extra services not mentioned herein cost inclusion.

Putha Hiunchuli Climb Gear list
Group climbing equipment, including fuel, stoves, ropes, fixings, tents, snow bars is supplied from Mountain Climb. For Full Board expedition service whereas Climbers will need to provide their own personal equipment.

Putha Hiunchuli Climb Expedition suggested personal gear list
 TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
•    1 Climbing Harness
•    1 pair of climbing boot.
•    1 pair of Gaiter
•    1 pair of Strong Crampon
•    Perlon. 6 mm, 40ft long.
•    1 Daypack (approx 45 lit)
•    1 Ice-Axe with leash (60 cm)
•    1 Jumar (Ascender)
•    1 Belay device: ATC or figure 8.
•    Carabiners: 4 Screw-gate (locking) and 6 regular twist-lock.

FOR SLEEPING

•    1 High Altitude Sleeping Bag (Expedition quality minus 20° C)
•    1 B.C. Sleeping Bag (minus 20° C)
•    1 Therma-Rest foam pad.

FOR HEAD

•    1 Woolen warm hat that fully covers your ears
•    1 Good sun hat or baseball cap
•    1 Bandanas or Neck gaiter
•    Thick balaclava, very thin balaclava or face mask
•    Sun cream (2 small tubes).
•    Balaclava: 1 heavyweight & 1 lightweight
•    Lips cream (2 sticks).

FOR HAND

•    1 pr polypro gloves.
•    1 pr over mitts (Gore-tex) double liners
•    1 pair of fleece/ wind stopper glove

CLOTHES

•    1 Thick fleece pant
•    1 Fleece jacket
•    4 T-shirts
•    2 Cotton pants or trekking pants
•    2 expedition T-shirts
•    1 wind proof jacket (Gore-tex)
•    1 Pile jacket: 1 Heavyweight pile
•    1 Pile pant
•    2-3 pieces of regular lightweight underwear. Synthetic or wool, but no cotton!
•    1 Long underwear
•    1 Long-sleeved shirts
•    1 Down Jacket
•    1 Down Pant.
•    1 Down parka
•    Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with hood.

FOR LEGS

•    1 Light hiking boots or trekking shoes
•    1 pair of sandle or Sport shoes or low top shoes
•    2 pair brand new wool or Pile Climbing socks
•    2 pair brand new liner socks. Thin wool, nylon
•    Vapor barrier socks(Optional)
•    Some lightweight socks

BITS AND PIECES

•    Plastic bags
•    2 lighters
•    Notebook/pens/pencil
•    Reading material
•    Music player and tapes (if prefer music)
•    2 Locks
•    Games- if you prefer(cards, dice, mastermind, rumicub, uno, frisbee, small ball etc.
•    Money pouch/belt/inside pocket
•    Clothes peg
•    Ear plugs     PRIMARY ESSENTIALS
•    Passport and some copies
•    2x Passport photos
•    Credit card
•    Traveller's cheques
•    $ cash, some in small bills
•    Important addresses and phone numbers
•    Airline Tickets

MISCELLANEUS

•    A good quality small Camera (Optional)
•    1 Water bottle.
•    1 Liter Thermos Flask
•    1 Pee bottle
•    Two sets of high quality Sunglasses (100% UV, IR)
•    1 Swiss Army knife
•    Compressions stuff sacks
•    1 Headlamp with spare batteries and bulbs
•    1 Large good quality duffle bags with lock.
•    Cup:
•    Bowl
•    Spoon

TOILETRIES

•    Lip salve, Razor, Toothpaste, Toothbrush, Moisturizer, Shaving cream, Liquid soap (biodegradable). There should be sufficient throughout the duration of your expedition.
•    Small towels (2) Nail clipper, Mirror, Scissors

HEALTH CONSIDERATIONS/MEDICINE
Acute Mountain Sickness (if going above 2500m)
Diamox (Acetazolamite) 250mg

Antibiotics
Ciproloxacin 500mg or norfloxacin 400mg

Antibiotic/anti-fungal skin application
Antibiotic (mupirocin 2%) ointment (15gm tube), Antifungal (clotrimazole or miconazole) cream
Allergy Inflammation & Itch
Anti-inflammatory cream/ointment/gel, hydrocortisone cream 1%

Antiseptic
Povi-Iodine (Betadine), Savlon or Dettol soap, burn cream silver sulphadiazine (20 gm tube)

Disinfectant for water
Iodine tabs or iodine solution eg. Lugol's or iodine crystals (25ml with dropper)

Diarrhea
Imodium or Lomotil caps

Eye and Ear infection
Antibiotic drops or ointment for eye and ear

Indigestion
Antacid tabs

Nausea and Vomitting
Maxolon or Stemetil

Painkillers (Analgesics)
Paracetamol, ibuprofen 400mg
Oral Rehydration Solution
Oralyte, Gastrolyte, or Electrobion (2 pacs)

DRESSING AND WOUND CARE
Bandaids, Cotton buds, gauze squares, Sterile non stick dressing 10 cm, small roll of 10 cm adhesive tape bandage, elastic bandage 10 cm, closures eg. Steristrips 6 mm wide

INSTRUMENTS
Tweezers, scissors, sewing needle, safety pins, latex gloves

IMMUNISATION
At least six weeks before the departure you will need to consult your doctor to work out an immunization schedules relevant to the Himalayas. You should normally be immunized against Tetanus, Polio, Hepatitis A, Cholera, though you must also contact your doctor for necessary immunization details.

Vaccinations against the following diseases may be useful, although they might be difficult or expensive to obtain. Your doctor will let you know if they are appropriate:
-Rabies.
-Meningitis.
-Japanese Encephalitis.

DENTAL CHECKS
It is most important that you have a through dental examination before the expedition and have any necessary treatment carried out. Dental treatment on the mountain is likely to be drastic and traumatic!

INSURANCE
All climbing members as well as support staffs must be insured before commencing on an Expedition. It is advised that you buy the Insurance Policy right from the home Country through a reliable Insurance company covering medical, accidental and rescue evacuation. Please ensure with your insurance company whether they really cover the risk for such high altitude mountaineering expedition.

©Mountain Climb P. Ltd.                                                                           www.mountain-climbs.com

Payment to Mountain Climb

An advance of 25% of the total cost is required when booking expedition, to be paid at least three month before departure to Mountain Climb.

The balance must reach us at least two months prior to expedition date to confirm a place/s. It can also be paid in Kathmandu before expedition departure on mutual agreement but on certain special condition only.

Mountain Climb reserve the right not to operate expedition without FULL payment receipt before departure for an expedition.

 We do accept last minute bookings if places are open for any departure (up to three weeks before trip date) in a first come, first served basis.

A group / individual participant must arrive Kathmandu at least two days in advance (4 days for Tibet expedition) in order to process your expedition or Tibet permits.

Mountain Climb Cancellation policy

In event of cancellation of your expedition the following charges will be made:
-More than 7 weeks before departure - Deposit amount
-6 weeks before departure date - 25% of total cost
-4 weeks before departure date - 50% of total cost
-Less than 3 weeks before departure date - No Refund.

Please provide us your bank transferred receipt, after the transfer of payment to our account.

Note!
We regret to inform you that we do not accept personal cheques or credit cards due to complicated bank procedures and delays.

Your Complete Financial Protection
Being a reputed and responsible Climbing Expedition organizer company, you can book your trip with Mountain Climb in complete confidence that all monies you deposit / pay for a trip are fully protected.

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